Fun at Sea - The Great Ship Building Challenge

The fabulous Sundowner Princess

One of the activities that many passengers take part in is the ‘Ship Building’ challenge ... the objective is to use recycled materials and items available on the ship to construct a sea worthy vessel which can transport six cans of beers from one end of the pool to the other and return them safely to the start.

Look at the detail on this ship - all made from recycled material

John and his wife Jenny, members of the crazy cruisers group, took up the challenge and completed two amazing vessels. On the first leg from Sydney to Dover, they constructed the Sundowner Princess ... an almost scale model of the Dawn Princess .... complete with helipad, pools, and life rafts ... a magnificent ship. Most other vessels were variations of rafts, with the cans stowed precariously on top - some disappearing over the end and into the pool before the end of the challenge run.

U2 - the amazing submarine carries six cans of beer inside the hull

For the second leg, John decided to think outside the square and they constructed U2, a submarine which floated just under the waterline, with the cans safely stowed inside. The main structure was created from the cardboard cylinder that comes inside of a carpet roll and duct tape. John spent hours perfecting the weight ratio and balance, so that it wouldn’t sink or take on water ... apparently many hours of after dark testing went into the preparation .. and bags of Tahiti sand provided the additional balast.

Braving the elements to support a friend!!

Today, the day of judging was very cold (icy NZ winds) on deck ... we wanted to show our support for John and his hard work ... so we braved the conditions and looked ridiculous standing around the pool rugged up in blankets ... all the water craft preformed creditably in crossing the pool with the cargo so it was down to audience applause to select the winner. I think every member of the crazy cruisers group was there cause John received tumultous applause and was declared the winner ... not before time cause we rushed back inside for a warm hot chocolate.

Well done, John and Jenny - you deserved to win for all the time you put in.

Cheers

Time Travelers - posh frocks but where are the free drinks???

It seems like we are floating in the middle of the ocean in our own little bubble where time is really immaterial to us. As we have travelled westward for this world cruise, we have had about 22 days when we have put the clocks back for an hour, and only once did we have to put the clock forward, so we have had many 25-hour days - how often have you wished for an extra hour in the day????

When we went to bed on Tuesday evening, there was a message on the bed, as usual, that the clocks would be going back another hour overnight so we dutifully changed our watches and phone clocks before we went to sleep. Arnold got up during the night and found a piece of paper under the door to say that there wasn’t a time change and it was a mistake, so we readjusted all the clocks. As you can imagine, next morning, confusion reigned as some passengers didn’t get the notice under their door (it was in the box beside the door) and so were running late for everything - every clock on the ship seemed to be on a different time for a while.

There has been lots of joking over the past few days as generous friends have offered free drinks on the 1st September, and the cruise staff have been offering free drinks at every bar all day on the 1st. 

However, we went to sleep last night on the 31st August, and woke up this morning on the 2nd September - that bump during the night was just the ship crossing the International Date line - so we are now officially on the same day as Australia and we are two hours ahead of you - on NZ time until after we leave Auckland on Sunday.

Obviously there is a downside to losing a day - especially if it is your birthday on the 1st ... not to worry .... Princess had arranged a special birthday party this afternoon for everyone who has a birthday on the 1st and 2nd of September with their families .... what a fabulous gesture. Our friend Ed, has been lucky enough to celebrate his birthday over both days .... maybe it is just one long party .... Happy birthday, Ed .....

I think we have had the last of our days on deck ... the temperature is definitely cooler today and it will continue to drop as we get closer to New Zealand and then Sydney.

Tonight is the last of the formal nights with a special Farewell dinner .... we will be losing our Kiwi friends and dinner partners - Anthea, Dennis, Ray and Paula when we arrive in Auckland ... we have had a fabulous time together .... the time has gone so quickly ... it is hard to believe that his adventure is coming to an end ... but we have made some wonderful friendship which I am sure will last a lifetime. Many are already booked on future cruises that we are also booked on, so no doubt we will catch up again .. either in Australia, New Zealand, the US or even on the high seas....

Cheers

Surprising Samoa

Beach Fales

Dawn Princess in Apia Bay

I have never really thought about Samoa as a Pacific Island holiday destination, but we were very pleasantly surprised during our time here today. Since we had missed out on being able to snorkel in Bora Bora, we decided that our priority was to find a beach to snorkel today ...... we have carried fins and snorkeling gear all around the world so we were determined that they would get wet today.

An early morning rainbow greets the long boats - the finish line??

Will we finally get wet today?

One internet search later and we had booked a small 4WD - a Tuscon - we decided to independently explore the island with Joanne and Garry. The car was delivered to the gate of the pier and we were soon on our way .... found an ATM for some local currency .. we were headed to the far side of the island and weren’t sure if they would take dollars .... we headed up over the mountain to the beautiful south coast ..... through lovely small traditional unchanged villages ..... each village had a central open air meeting hall .... surrounded by houses which were mostly one large room ... each village is a family group ..... ancestors are highly respected so there is a burial site in front of each home .... some very lavish .... we were interested to see the local rubbish collection .... rubbish was placed on a platform outside each home on the roadside in plastic bags ... we followed a collection truck ... the driver was able to reach out his window and take the bags from the platform ... each one was at the correct height for the driver to reach.

Open air meeting halls

family burial in front of the home

Rubbish collection - Samoan style

Bringing home the coconuts!

Our first stop was at Paradise Cove at the Seabreeze resort ... Chris, the owner is a former Queenslander .. we recognised his Broncos stubbie holder ... he built the beautiful secluded resort in a tranquil bay on the southern lagoon ... and it was totally destroyed by the 2009 tsunami .... the reconstruction has only just been completed ... so new that the toilets were still being painted. We had delicious plunger coffee in the restaurant while the water lapped under the floor. We all agreed that this would be a perfect honeymoon destination.

Secluded Paradise Cove

Recovering from the Tsunami - rebuilding almost complete - Seabreeze Resort

Overwater dining - great coffee

The southern coastline is a photographers dream .... stunning vistas around every corner .... against a coastal backdrop featuring every possible shade of blue .... Arnold was driving and was very accommodating as we asked him to stop and in some cases to reverse the car so we could take photos. 

Beautiful scenery around every corner

Lalomanu Bay is billed as the best swimming and snorkeling beach on the island of Upolu .. so it was our next stop .... it was inside the sheltered lagoon ... on the south eastern side of the island where the damage from the tsunami was worst ... everywhere there was still evidence of destroyed houses ... deserted remains of homes, car wrecks and even clothing and possessions washed up onto the beach ... and stories of family members who had been lost .... heartbreaking.... but they are very resilient and courageous as many are rebuilding homes in the same area because it is their family land and heritage and they don’t want to move.

Tsunami damage

We had been told on the ship and in the guide book that the Samoan beaches are owned by families and villages and that we would have to pay a fee to use the beaches (the Princess Patter quoted a rate of $10-20) .... we asked at Lalomanu beach and the gentlemen just said .... ‘there’s the water, enjoy it’ .... and we definitely took his advice and enjoyed it .... the water was sparkling clear with white sand .... and it was not far out to the coral bottom ..... although it looked like a lot of the coral was destroyed in the tsunami .... I put on the mask and looked under the water ... at first, I didn’t see any fish until Joanne took out some biscuits which we crumbled ... and suddenly a frenzy of small fish were all around us ..... they were a sandy colour and blended perfectly with the sea bed. Further out, we swam over the reef and saw a number of varieties of fish and starfish sheltering under the coral. I love snorkeling so I was very happy to be here in such beautiful conditions.

camouflaged fish - they loved the biscuit crumbs

Along the waterside at Lalomanu Beach are the Taufau beach fales - thatched roof shelters that can be rented for the day to store your gear and provide sun protection ... we weren’t here long enough to rent one but they looked interesting .... it was a great place to swim cause there were showers, toilets, a bar, restaurant and small store .... facilities that are not readily available at the beaches in Samoa. We had taken fruit and muffins for lunch so we enjoyed these before making the return trip to Apia.

Felafa Falls - lush tropical gardens

There is really only one main road across the centre of the island and a road which goes along the coast ... we continued to head around the island back to Apia enjoying the scenery along the way ... as well as the sights of the local villages and schools ...... we arrived back in Apia around 3.00pm. .... topped up the car with petrol ... and decided to have a drink at Aggie Grey’s ....a Samoan hotel landmark near the port .... legend has it that Aggie Grey’s husband left her with debts when he died .. to make money, she set up a cafe near the port and sold hamburgers and coffee to the homesick American GI’s who called at Samoa in WW2.... she is also believed to be the model for the character of ‘Bloody Mary’, although the famous Bloody Mary’s bar is on Bora Bora. Many other ship’s passengers were also enjoying the pool bar and the tropical cocktails on offer .. the boys shared a large Vailima beer ...the local brew ... while we had cocktails .... Joanne enjoyed an Aggies special .... no idea of the ingredients ... cause it is a closely guarded secret recipe, while I had a wonderful concoction of Baileys and banana liqueur .... yummy .... suddenly we noticed that the bar was emptied .... ... and everyone was heading back to the ship .... must be close to all aboard time. We returned the car, and checked out the markets which were set up on the pier until it was time to go back onto the ship.

Original Open Air Samoan parliament building

Aggie Grey's iconic hotel

We showered and met up for the sail away on the back deck ... enjoying a champagne while watching the sun go down and Apia disappear into the distance ... suddenly the ship slowed and did a complete 180 degree turn ... could we be heading back to Apia .... theories abounded until Captain Vinnie came onto the speakers to tell us that we may have noticed that the ship had turned around ... there was a medical emergency and we needed to transfer a patient back to Apia .... as we neared the port, the ship stopped and a pilot boat came out and transferred a medical team to the ship ... after some time .... the patient, partner and medical team transferred back to the pilot boat and we again turned around and headed on our way .... it is always a sad time when we hear about any passenger who has had their plans changed by medical issues ... and we pray that they will make a quick recovery. Already we had heard a ‘code alpha’ announcement in the morning before we left the ship ... that is the crew code for a medical emergency ... a lady had broken her leg, slipping on the wet deck after some early morning rain .... it makes you aware of how quickly everything can change ..... 

A secret recipe

We are now heading south towards Auckland ..... the mood on the ship is changing as passengers begin to pack .... we will be losing a number of friends in Auckland .... I am determined that I will be packing on the afternoon before Sydney, when we have to change staterooms for our trip to Brisbane .... I don’t want to think about it yet .... so am keeping my head firmly planted in the sand!!!

Cheers

Note for future cruisers: Currency exchange: 1 Aussie dollar=2.3 tala. (August 2011)

We rented our car through Blue Pacific Car Rentals ... email to sales@bluepacific.ws ...... they were one of the few rental companies who would deliver to the pier. It is necessary to get a temporary Samoan driver’s licence .... issued by the rental company .... total rental was 202 tala - (rental, full insurance and licence)about 85 aussie dollars .... for 8 hour rental .... they drive on left hand side .... if you don’t want to drive, there were a lot of taxis on the pier with rates which varied from 25 to 40 dollars per person for 4-5 hours.... rate depends on your negotiating skills and also the number of passengers. 

Bora Bora - Pacific Paradise

Bora Bora is called ‘the Pearl of the Pacific’ and as we sailed through the reef which almost completely encircles the island, we could see the lush green main island rising from the sea .... it was easy to see how it came by its nickname. Mt Otemanu is the remains of a volcano, and the islands are formed by the remains of the caldera, so the lagoon is protected from the sea by the smaller outer islands and the reef. The Dawn Princess passed through the narrow inlet, between two small motu, and anchored in the clear amethyst waters of the lagoon.

I woke up very early and excited - this was one of the highlight days of the trip for me - I had been looking forward to it for so long - we had booked a tour to swim with the black tip sharks and stingrays in the lagoon and then have a lobster beach barbecue.

Bora Bora is a tender port so we congregated in Jammers at 7.00 am so that we could get onto the first tender and meet up with our guide. It was a short tender ride across the most spectacular turquoise blue water to the small pier - and we were too early for the tour so we had time to wander around the small village of Vaitape .... buy a couple of souvenirs and postcards .... check out the jewellery stores ....Tahitian black pearls are world famous .... and most of the shops had displays of the gems .... before we arrived back at the tour meeting point at 8.30am. One look at Joanne’s face and I knew that everything was not right - the guide had just told her that a large tidal swell was expected on the low lying island today and so all activities on the lagoon were cancelled for the day - the water was rough and visibility was very poor .... the first time that this has happened for more than five years.

Some quick re-planning, and we jumped onto the local ‘Le Truck’ bus to go down to the public beach at Matira Point - the bus trip is $5US for each trip - pay when you leave the bus. We also thought about going to the Inter Continental Hotel, where, for $5, guests can use the pool and facilities as long as you agree to have a meal there. However, the hotel is on the beachfront and was closed cause they were expecting the wave to cross the road and invade their ground floor restaurant and pool. Later in the day we saw a number of houses which were inundated with water at high tide.

Effects of the tide

We went over to the beach - which has been voted as one of the ten best beaches in the world. We could see the reef barrier around the island in the distance - waves were breaking along the reef in spectacular style and rolling onto the beach - all the locals were out on the lagoon waiting to catch the waves in to the beach - many said that it was the best swell ever .... while we were very disappointed by the weather, they were relishing the chance to surf the waves in all types of floating boards, rafts and outriggers ..... they were having a wonderful time.

Local men were walking along the beach and warning swimmers that the conditions were dangerous - I went for a quick dip on the edge between the rolling wave sets - it was very deceptive because there were stages where there were no waves and the water was flat ... then suddenly a large wave would build out to sea and roll in across the lagoon and up into the beach hut where most onlookers were watching ..... making them run back a their feet got wet ..... I kept an eye on the locals at the outer edge of the lagoon on their boards ... when they turned on their boards towards the shore to catch the waves back to the beach ... that was the signal to get out of the water quickly.

After our swim, we decided to get the bus back to town stopping at the famous bar ‘Bloody Mary’s’, a Bora Bora landmark. At the entrance there is a large board which names many famous people who have visited including Meg Ryan, Burt Bacharach, Danny DeVito and Charleton Heston.  Inside the bar was quite unique - a sand covered floor - just inside the door is a ‘cloakroom’ where you can check in your shoes - all the bar stools are polished chunks of Palm trunks, under a thatched bamboo roof. The drinks are about $7 for a beer and $12 for a cocktail - I has a Blue Lagoon - at least the bar tender didn’t skimp on the alcohol - it was very strong!!

We met up with Anthea, Dennis, Joanne and Garry and decided to sit down for lunch at Bloody Mary’s - I had a great pineapple and chicken burger while Arnold had pepper-crusted Mahi-Mahi sushimi which he said was so fresh and delicious. The two meals and drinks came to about $53US - we figure that we will probably never be back here again - so we may as well see what all the hype was about - that’s what this whole trip is about for us - experiencing the pleasures of traveling and enjoying unique experiences.  

The wash basin in the ladies - pull the wooden ring and water flows down the waterfall

We caught the local bus back to the pier ..... Arnold’s back was sore from bouncing around on the wooden seats in Le Truck so he decided to return to the ship ....I opted to join a circle island tour .... they were available on the pier right beside where the tender docks .... $25 for a two hour tour around the island .... taking in all the local sights. There is only one road around the island - in 1941, American GI’s were stationed here at an ammunition supply depot and while here they built infrastructure for the islanders ... the sealed 32 km. road around the island, the first airport runway in French Polynesia and fresh spring water ..... which has greatly enhanced the lifestyle of the people. There are still a number of reminders of their time on the island with bunkers, cannons, and some WW2 huts scattered about. The islanders are grateful for their help and still use the bunkers as shelter from cyclones and tidal surges.

Our guide was a well respected elder named Mamma Norah .. she was a delight ....with a wonderful happy belly-shaking laugh .....  she was very proud of her Polynesian heritage and had a wonderful understanding of the special nature of the island .... and the importance of keeping the environment just as unspoiled as it is now for future generations ... there is an emphasis on teaching traditional music and dance to retain the culture of the islands ... she was adamant that there will never be any high rise buildings on Bora Bora ... everything must maintain the traditional island style.

WW2 bunker

Condominiums owned by Marlon Brando's widow

Tourism is the only industry of the island and all the islanders work either in the exclusive over-water buree hotels - restaurants - shops - and in the production of local handicrafts for sale. We stopped at a home where large trestle tables were set up in the yard for the production of pareos - the traditional sarong .... large templates cut from leaves were placed on the fabric after dyeing and held down with pieces of coral in the sun for the pattern to be set. It is wonderful to see each one being made by hand rather than being mass produced somewhere like China .... I bought one for about $10 ... love the sea blues and green colours.

Bora Bora has a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous - the major exclusive hotel chains like St Regis and Four Seasons have hotels set over the water where the room rates start at $1000US per night ... international flights land in Tahiti and then a small plane transfer is available to Bora Bora. Luckily, we were able to bring our own hotel our waterfront room .... and spend a day in the beautiful lagoon. Although we weren’t able to swim with the sharks and stingrays .... we had a wonderful day on the beautiful island ... oh well ... just another addition to the bucket list .... return to Bora Bora .... can’t wait.....

Fishing on the back deck

Although we have been on the ship for more than three months, we have not watched any movie on the movies under the stars screen on deck 12. Tonight they were replaying the Rugby final on the big screen so we decided to miss dinner in the dining room and take some pizza up to watch the replay. It was originally telecast live at midnight last night but we were already asleep - ready for our early start this morning. Although we knew the final score, it was a fun atmosphere to be watching the game under the stars as we sailed across the South Pacific ... pinch me again ... for some reason the crowd was made up of mostly Australians ... suddenly the Kiwis who had been so vocal in their ribbing before the game had found other things to do .... 

Football and pizza under the stars

We are now sailing west with two sea days before Apia ... the plan is to try some snorkeling there ... we have carried our masks and flippers all around the world so we hope to get them wet in our last island port ....

Cheers

Note for future cruisers - A tourist office is located to the right of the tender pier and island tours are available from the pier - operators meet the tenders and hold up signs - Circle island tours are about $25 for 2 hours - (morning and afternoon) - 4WD off road trips are also available for about $70. Shuttles operate a service to Matira public beach and Bloody Marys (you get on the bus and pay $5 when you get off - distance doesn’t seem to matter) We were told that usually snorkeling tours are also available from the pier although they weren’t here when we arrived cause the lagoon was closed.